Tavurvur Volcano & Hot Springs

Tavurvur is the volcano that, with Vulcan across the bay, destroyed Rabaul in September 1994. It has kept erupting on and off since, and on most days a wisp of steam or ash rises from the crater. The landscape around it is grey ash, pumice and twisted dead trees, with the buried runway of the old Lakunai airfield on the way in. At the foot of the cone, hot springs bubble out of the black sand and run into the sea. The water is close to boiling, so look but do not touch. Villagers from Matupit sell megapode eggs that have been dug from the warm ash and cooked in the springs, and local guides lead walks partway up the slope when activity is low. There is no shade at all. Wear closed shoes, take a hat and plenty of water, and always follow the guide's call on how far to go.