Curry Crab and Dumpling at the Store Bay Huts

The food huts at Store Bay are a line of numbered kitchens behind the beach, several of them run by the same families for decades, and they are where you eat Tobago's national dish. Curry crab and dumpling is exactly that: blue crab in a thick curry with boiled flour dumplings, eaten with your hands and a stack of napkins. Miss Trim's and Miss Jean's are the names people repeat. Portions are large, prices are a fraction of a restaurant meal and everything is cash. Come at lunchtime, expect to queue and expect to be messy.