Washo Market & Katte-don

Washo Market, a short walk from JR Kushiro Station, is one of Hokkaido's three great fish markets and the birthplace of katte-don, the "do-as-you-like bowl". The ritual is simple: buy a bowl of rice (and miso soup if you like) at one of the rice counters, then walk the aisles where vendors call out and pick toppings piece by piece, from salmon roe and sea urchin to scallops, crab, tuna and sweet shrimp. Each slice is priced individually, so a modest bowl costs ¥1,500–2,500 and a luxurious one far more; prices are shown on small cards, and stall keepers are used to pointing and gestures. Eat at the tables in the centre of the hall. Go before noon for the widest choice. The market opens at 8:00 and closes on Sundays from November to March (Sunday hours are shortened in summer), and many stalls only take cash.